Spangled Stars Quilt Assembly

Welcome back to the Spangled Stars QAL! The blocks are made and it's time for the assembly instructions! All that work has been building up to a fantastic quilt top! Yeah!

If you're just joining in, all of the previous block instructions can be found through the pink links below.

Welcome to the Spangled Stars QAL - April 30, 2015 

       Uneven Nine Patch Block - May 7, 2015

Bar Block - May 14, 2015

Stripes and Cross - May 21, 2015

Star Block, Unit A - May 28, 2015    

Star Block, Unit B - June 4, 2015

Quilt assembly - June 11, 2015

Completed Top Linky - June 18, 2015

 Completed Quilt, Grand Parade - July 2, 2015

Now grab all of those lovely blocks, and let's make a quilt top!

The assembly is quite easy, as there's very few seams to match. Essentially, it consists of alternating rows of bar/uneven 9-patch blocks, and stripe and cross/star/bar blocks. Attention is required for orientation, and what row is being assembled.

A special note for those making a queen size. This size is the same layout as the double, but it has an extra column of bar blocks and background blocks on each side. Cut (14) 6 1/2" x 6 1/2" squares of background fabric to set in between the bar blocks. 

Now for some of the sewing and pressing. I laid out two rows at a time, 

then stacked each row to go to the sewing machine. The first row is easy to put together, no seam matching involved. The second row does require seams to match at the blue bars.

The instructions for these three blocks has the seams pressed toward the blue bar, which means they won't nest with their neighboring blocks. Personally, I'd rather work with un-nested seams than have dark fabric shadow through my quilt. So here's how to deal with matching up those seams.

Lay the blocks right sides together, and lift up the edge of the top block at the seam to be matched, turning it back just 1/4". Line up the seams, and place a pin just before the first seam. Line up the next seam, and place a pin just before it.

By putting the pins in front, it helps eliminate the push of the top fabric by the foot, throwing off the matching. Sew the seam, and check it before moving on.

The blue bars are the only areas that need matching, which makes this top go together pretty fast. The other block to be aware of is the stripe and cross - make sure the red/white/red stripes in the middle go up and down.

Pretty easy! This is how far I've gotten with one of my twin sizes,

and I have four more rows to put together. Then it's on to sewing all of the rows.

And a word about pressing. This quilt really doesn't work well with the one row pressed right, the next row pressed left idea, because of the star points. So I'm pressing mine based around those stars, with the seams pressed out, away from the star, eliminating bulk. The seam above and below it will go the opposite direction. I'm also treating the stripe and cross block the same way as the star. Sorry no pictures - haven't done any pressing yet!!

Now, go sew! Be sure to link up the completed quilt tops next week. I'll be sending out reminders, along with pictures of mine. 

Happy Quilting!

Spangled Stars QAL Star Block Unit B and C

Welcome back to the Spangled Stars Quiltalong! Today is the last of the block instructions before the final assembly next week. We're almost there!

The schedule is into it's final weeks, and if you're just joining in, click on the pink links to find the instructions for the previous blocks.

 Welcome to the Spangled Stars QAL - April 30, 2015 

       Uneven Nine Patch Block - May 7, 2015

Bar Block - May 14, 2015

Stripes and Cross - May 21, 2015

Star Block, Unit A - May 28, 2015    

Star Block, Unit B - June 4, 2015

Quilt assembly - June 11, 2015

Completed Top Linky - June 18, 2015

 Completed Quilt, Grand Parade - July 2, 2015

Now let's finish up those Star blocks!

Below is the cutting chart for Unit B, the double HST's (half square triangles).

	# Star Blocks	# B Units	Dark Blue squares	White, bkgrnd squares	Medium Blue 40” WOF
Wall	5	20	(2)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	(2)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	3 7/8” x 1 WOF
Throw	7	28	(2)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	(2)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	3 7/8” x 2 WOF
Twin	15	60	(4)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	(4)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	3 7/8” x 3 WOF
Double	18	72	(5)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	(5)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	3 7/8” x 4 WOF
Queen	18	72	(5)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	(5)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	3 7/8” x 4 WOF
King	24	96	(6)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	(6)  8 ½” x 8 ½”	3 7/8” x 5 WOF

The first HST's are made with the dark blue and white background squares, cut 8 1/2" x 8 1/2". Some quilt sizes will have extra HST's. I'm making the twin size, which has 15 star blocks, each one needing 4 Unit B's, 60 units in all. 

With right sides together,  pair up a dark blue square with a white background square, and mark two diagonal lines from each corner.

Pin them together, and using a scant 1/4" seam allowance, sew along each side of the diagonal line.

It should look like this when it's done.

Time for cutting! A rotating mat works wonderfully for the next step, otherwise do your best to keep all parts together until all the cutting is done. Cut along the diagonal marked lines, then cut lengthwise through the middle, and then horizontally through the middle.

Once all four cuts are made, the HST's can be separated.

Press each HST seam to the dark.

Referring to the chart again, cut the required number of 

3 7/8" strips, then subcut each strip 3 7/8".

The chart below lists how many squares to subcut for each size.

	# of first HST’s (dk blue/white)	# of  3 7/8” med blue squares to cut
Wall	10	10
Throw	14	14
Twin	30	30
Double	36	36
Queen	36	36
King	48	48

Mark one diagonal line, corner to corner, on the wrong side of each square. Pair these up with an HST from the previous step, making sure the diagonal line is perpendicular to the HST seam line.

Once again, using a scant 1/4" seam, stitch on both sides of the marked line.

Cut on the drawn line, and press to the medium blue.

Be sure to trim up these little units to 3 1/2" x 3 1/2", aligning the diagonal seams with the diagonal on the ruler.

Unit B first trim

Unit B second trim

After trimming, sort the units into two piles, one with the medium blue on the left, the other with it on the right.

Done with Unit B! The next part, Unit C, is to cut the correct number of 3 1/2" strips per the chart below, subcutting each 3 1/2", for the centers of the stars.

	# Star Blocks	White bkgrnd 40” WOF
Wall	5	(1) 3 ½”  x  1 WOF
Throw	7	(1) 3 ½”  x  1 WOF
Twin	15	(2) 3 ½”  x  1 WOF
Double	18	(2) 3 ½”  x  1 WOF
Queen	18	(2) 3 ½”  x  1 WOF
King	24	(3) 3 ½”  x  1 WOF

Gathering all units, A,B, and C, follow the diagram to lay out the stars for sewing. Use all pieces from one stack of the Unit B's before moving on to the second stack.

This way, there is no confusion because the stars have different rotations. 

If that isn't pleasing, another set of the first dk blue/white HST can be made, or the originals can be torn apart and the dk blue/white positions switched. Personally, it doesn't bother me, so I'm leaving it!

Following my tutorial on Efficiently Sewing a Nine Patch, sew all the stars together, and give them a good press. It's your choice which way the seams go, because they don't have to nest with anything in the final assembly. These blocks measure 9 1/2" x 9 1/2".

Now stand back and admire your work! You did it! Next week I'll go over assembly.

Happy Quilting!

Spangled Stars QAL Star Block Unit A

Time for the next installment of the Spangled Stars QAL!

Those of you who have been quilting along with me, I hope you're have fun! If you're just joining in - Welcome! Here's the schedule, with the links to previous blocks in pink.

Welcome to the Spangled Stars QAL - April 30, 2105 

       Uneven Nine Patch Block - May 7, 2015

Bar Block - May 14, 2015

Stripes and Cross - May 21, 2015

Star Block, part 1 - May 28, 2015    

Star Block, part 2 - June 4, 2015

Quilt assembly - June 11, 2015

Completed Top Linky - June 18, 2015

Completed Quilt, Grand Parade - July 2, 2015

The next two weeks feature the last block, the Star Block. 

I'm breaking it into two sections, mainly because a) the instructions for each part are intensive, and b) there's a lot of parts to assemble just to make one block, and precision is going to count here. The other blocks have been pretty easy, but this one needs more attention. So spreading it out causes less confusion.

I'm starting with the units in the corners,

which EQ calls 'checkerboard'. Not quite what I'd call it, and if you know a different name, let me know. For now, I'm calling it Unit A!

Below is the chart for cutting WOF strips for each size, and each color, following the coloring in the diagram above. If your coloring is different, be sure to note that for yourself.

	# Star Blocks	# Unit A	Red square (40” WOF)	White bkgrnd, (40” WOF)	Light Blue HST, (40” WOF)
Wall	5	20	2” x 1 WOF	3” x 1 WOF	3 7/8” x  1 WOF
Throw	7	28	2” x 2 WOF	3” x 2 WOF	3 7/8” x  2 WOF
Twin	15	60	2” x 3 WOF	3” x 3 WOF	3 7/8” x  3 WOF
Double	18	72	2” x 4 WOF	3” x 4 WOF	3 7/8” x  4 WOF
Queen	18	72	2” x 4 WOF	3” x 4 WOF	3 7/8” x  4 WOF
King	24	96	2” x 5 WOF	3” x 5 WOF	3 7/8” x  4 WOF

I'm making a twin size, which has 15 Star Blocks,

and each Star Block has 4 Unit A's, which means I'm making 60 Unit A's ( 15 x 4=60). If you're making a different size, I've already figured out how many Unit A's you need, just refer to the chart above.

Unit A is made up using strip piecing. Yes, that's right, strip piecing. There is no cutting and piecing of little squares and triangles. And no waste - that's the best part, because I don't need more little waste pieces to figure out what to do with!

So, let's get started! Cut the number of 2" red strips (for the squares) and 3" white strips (for the background) needed for each size. Sew one red strip to one background strip, and press to the red (dark).

Just as in the making of the other blocks, the strip sets get stacked for subcutting, right sides together, with the red strips on opposite sides.

They must be positioned this way for sewing in the next step, so be sure the red strips oppose each other.

Subcut the strip sets at 2", keeping the pairs together. 

Each pair will make two Unit A's. Use the chart below to find how many subcut pairs to cut.

	# of subcut pairs
Wall	10
Throw	14
Twin	30
Double	36
Queen	36
King	48

Head to the sewing machine and chain stitch all the pairs together along the long edge.

Clip them apart, but before pressing, place each long seam against a ruler, aligning the background edge with the 1 1/2" mark.

Make a small clip to the seam line at the 3/4" mark. Do this on all units. This step makes final assembly so much easier!

Now press each side of the long seam away from the red (dark). The clip in the middle allows for that easily.

Now for the tricky part, the step that needs close attention.

Using a 6" square ruler, line the rulers' center diagonal line along the right side of the unit, with the cutting edge going through the center clip (arrows in the center of the picture).

The ruler needs to align along the blocks' outer edge, near the corners, the same amount on each side, somewhere between 3/8" and 1/2", depending on how the center seam was sewn and pressed. Here are closeups of each corner.

If these measurements aren't equal, the angle of the cut is off, making for a smaller seam allowance. So pay attention to this step - it's not hard, just time consuming. And yes, I measured each one, all 60 corners.

Once the measurements are equal, cut along the diagonal, to yield to HST pieces. The picture below shows the front and back of the units.

But wait! One corner is missing on each unit! Don't worry - it works just fine without it!

Once those are all ready, cut the 3 7/8" light blue strip, subcutting it to make 3 7/8" squares.

Lay one light blue 3 7/8" square right side up, and place a red square unit from before right side down, matching two edges.

Lay another red square unit on the other corner, right side down, matching up edges. The corners are hard to see, so go by the edges. Pin both pieces in place, preferably with flat head pins. The diagonal edges will overlap slightly.

Using the 6" square ruler again, align the rulers' center diagonal line with the left edge of the block.

The corners are hard to see for alignment, but do the best as possible. Draw a pencil line along the diagonal, being careful of fabric shifting.

Sew a scant 1/4" from the pencil line on each side, aligning the start with the cut off corner (see the bit of blue peeking through?)

and stitching just at the edge of the cross seams for the red square. Notice in the next picture how the needle is headed straight to that seam intersection? 

This is why the fabric was clipped and pressed away from the red square - to improve visibility so the red square point doesn't get cut off or that seam doesn't land close enough. Oh, so smart! 

Sew down one side of the center line, turn the block around, and sew the other side. Then chain stitch to the next block. I don't recommend chain stitching down one side on every block, then going back and doing the other side, as this unit needs to stay positioned correctly. 

Using the 6" square ruler, cut on the center pencil line.

Tiny bits from each side are the only waste. Press the seam towards the light blue. Trim off the little dog ears, and do a measurement check - 3 1/2" square. If there is any trimming to do, do it on the blue piece, not the red/white, as that shouldn't be any smaller. And notice that the missing corner was no big deal - just fewer dog ears to trim! Aren't they pretty both front and back?

Have fun, enjoy the process, and link up those blocks!